Real-deal tips from someone who's been picking since the MySpace days.
If you're new to vintage or just starting to hunt down older tees, one of the biggest challenges is figuring out what's actually legit. With repros, bootlegs, and straight-up fakes floating around, it’s easy to get burned — especially if you're buying online.
I’ve been collecting since 2008, and I’ve learned (sometimes the hard way) how to spot the signs of a true vintage t-shirt. Here's everything I look for when I’m flipping tags and checking stitches.
1. Check the Tag First
Tags are usually the fastest way to date a shirt. If it has a printed neck label (like most modern shirts), it's almost never vintage.
Look for brands like:
- Screen Stars
- Brockum
- Hanes (Made in USA)
- Changes
- Giant by Tultex
- Fruit of the Loom (old logo)
Pro tip: Some brands switched over time — for example, Hanes started phasing out the "Made in USA" tag around the early 2000s. If you see that, there's a good chance it's pre-2005.
2. Single-Stitch Seams
We already covered this in our other post, but it’s worth repeating — single-stitch sleeves or hems are a strong sign of an older tee. Most shirts made before the late 90s used this construction. Not a guarantee by itself, but definitely a green flag.
3. The Print Tells a Story
Cracked ink, plastisol feels, and off-center graphics can all be good signs.
Things I look for:
- Dated prints (e.g., “©1994 Warner Bros.”)
- Licensing info (music or movie rights holders)
- Natural fading (from wash and wear, not design)
Bonus: Vintage band tees often used front-and-back prints, or large chest designs that sit higher than today’s styles.
4. Boxy Fit & Weird Sizing
Old tees don’t fit like new ones. They tend to be:
- Wider and shorter (boxy)
- Tagged as a size but fit completely different
Example: I’ve picked up XLs that wear like a modern Medium. Always check pit-to-pit and length.
5. Feel the Fabric
This one’s hard to explain in writing, but once you’ve handled enough shirts, you’ll know. Older cotton feels:
- Softer and thinner (but not cheap)
- More broken in
- Sometimes a bit heavier depending on the era (like 70s or early 80s blanks)
I always say: if it feels too perfect, it probably isn’t vintage.
Final Thoughts
There’s no single rule that makes a tee vintage — it’s about stacking signs. The tag might check out, but if the print looks fresh and the cotton feels new, it might be a reprint. Same thing in reverse — sometimes you find a tagless bootleg that still holds up because of the wear, fade, and style.
It really comes down to time and reps. The more shirts you see, the better your instincts get.
If you ever have doubts, hit me up on IG (@throwbkhaven). I’m always down to help someone avoid a fake.
About the Author:
Juan Tule is the founder of Throwback Haven. After years building e-commerce brands, he rediscovered his love for vintage graphic tees while digging through his old skate shirts. Now, he curates handpicked tees from the ‘70s to early 2000s — preserving the styles and stories that shaped a generation.
